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When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. Thanks, That is an strange situation. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. It is a common one. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. Thank you. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. Duty Cycle% = 3 Yes, let me know how that setup process works. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). 2. I did change the -40 thing also. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Well you were right air was entering from another source. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Or is there something else I should Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. First thing I would check Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. I've changed all the Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. 90% of time with engine hot. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the have the system learn the higher speeds? Let Please help. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. Thanks Again for your help. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Is there away to lean the idle out? If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. I can get it to fire up on the I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. I'd really appreciate some help. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. Thank you for your input. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Any ideas here? This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I keep doing that with the same result. See these. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? Idle > IAC Kick. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! shut truck off. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. :-). Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Do please let us know what you find out! And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. P.S. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Capability Range: Advanced The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. It won't take much! :-). If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know.